Fragrance compositions

ABSTRACT

A method of promoting activated, pleasant moods through the inhalation of energising, non-stressing fragrances (invigorating fragrances) comprising at least 75% by weight, preferably 85% by weight of perfume materials drawn from the following groups:
     A) At least 10% by weight in total of at least three materials drawn from Group ‘IMP’ comprising: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl salicylate; bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde; 1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone; allyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE; 2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; fir balsam; fir needle oil; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; ginger oil; guaiacwood; linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orange flower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary oil; sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; tarragon oil;   B) Optionally up to 90% of materials from the following groups:
       Group ‘HMR’ comprising:   allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol; ethyl linalol; ethylene brassylate; 4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol; geranium oil; isoeugenol; lemon oil; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one; cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; gamma-undecalactone.   Group ‘HMI’ comprising:   1-{[2-(1,1 -dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -{b}]furan; alpha-damascone; dihydromyrcenol; eugenol; 3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange oil; 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate.   Group ‘HMP’ comprising:   1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo[5.3.1.0 {1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone; allyl cyclohexyl propionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S pcmf; 7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl acetoacetate; ethyl maltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl acetate; (3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol; 2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; ylang oil. Group ‘RMP’ comprising: anisic aldehyde; (2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol; benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin; oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one; hexyl salicylate; hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol; 2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate; alpha-terpineol; vanillin;   Group ‘GEN’ comprising:   cyclopentadecanolide; oxacyclohexadecan-2-one; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta; isobornyl cyclohexanol; 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone; 4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol; methyl dihydrojasmonate; 2-phenylethanol;   provided the following conditions are met:   (a) IMPs&gt;=HMPs+HMRs   (b) IMPs+HMIs+GENs&gt;=70%   (c) (IMP+HMI)/(IMP+HMI+RMP+HMR)&gt;=0.7   (d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)&gt;=0.5   (e) IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)+( 100 −TOTAL)]&gt;=0.3   wherein ‘IMPs’ indicates the sum of the percentages of materials within Group IMP, and similarly for the remaining groups, the symbol ‘&gt;=’ indicates ‘at least equal to’, and ‘TOTAL’ is the sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs, provided also that low odour or no odour solvents are excluded from the calculation of these sums is provided which have an invigorating effect when inhaled by a subject.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to novel fragrance compositions and toconsumer products that incorporate such fragrances.

BACKGROUND

The senses provide us with basic information about our surroundings. Ata first level, sensory information can be broken down into itsconstituent parts each of which, in turn, can be perceived as beingsomewhere above a threshold level. For smell we can deconstruct perfumeinto different characteristics and perceive the relative preponderanceof each. For odour, the key ‘dimensions’ of the sensory world are:threshold, intensity and character. In this way we can derive aquantitative or semi-quantitative descriptive analysis of a smell.However odours are also powerful drivers of mood and emotion and in manycases our primary response to odours is emotional.

Olfactory information feeds directly through the olfactory bulb into thelimbic system, the emotional heart of the brain. This finding reinforcesthe conclusion that odour has a powerful ability to evoke emotions.Other senses confer sensory information on a far more factual level. Theprimacy of vision emphasises this.

Vision provides a sophisticated ability to resolve colour, shape, size,distance, movement, direction, texture; it informs recognition. It canbe enjoyed at an artistic or abstract level through introspection butthe first experience is factual, sensory information. The higher-levelperceptions follow.

For odour, the process is generally reversed. Odour recognition inuntrained subjects is low. Memory for odours is poor, certainly lessthan memory for words and pictures. The primary reactions to odour arehedonic, associative, and emotional. Once these responses bring an odourto the attention of the subject it may be further characterised, forexample, with respect to its sensory dimensions.

Emotions (such as joy) are transitory, brief events. An episode willrarely last more than a minute.

Moods (such as happiness) can last much longer, even hours. They arebackground states which provide a context for emotions.

Moods can be both enablers and barriers. If the subject is in a happymood then it is easier for them to experience joy. Conversely if thesubject is in a sad mood it is more difficult for them to feel joy. Theyare inputting into our feelings of well-being, which in turn can be seenas the integration of emotional and physical inputs that come togetherto define the organism's state.

Our moods reset the baseline for feeling emotions. Moods and emotionsmay act as motivators encouraging us to act in ways that increase oursurvival chances and enjoyment. The structure of moods has beendescribed by Russell (1980) and E Diener & R J Larsen (1984) who wereable to classify the spectrum of emotions in terms of their pleasantnessand the degree of activation involved. The circumplex model (see L.Feldman Barrett and J. A. Russell, 1999, Current Directions inPsychological Science, 8, p. 11 (American Psychological Society))describes affect in terms of the two orthogonal dimensions of valenceand activation. Activated, pleasant moods included states ofinvigoration and stimulation. De-activated pleasant moods includedRelaxed. Negative activated moods could be typified by Annoyed orNervous, while negative deactivated moods could be exemplified byBoredom. The key dimensions of mood would be Stimulated-Calm andHappy-Sad. We have found that fragrances can enhance moods, and wedescribe here how fragrances can be specifically formulated to enhanceactivated, pleasant moods.

Context can have an influence on the moods evoked by odours and this isparticularly relevant for positive, activated smells. This has largelybeen driven by associations with the usage of different fragranceclasses in different consumer product applications, such as lemon indish wash products. It is a phenomenon akin to that found in taste whena yellow drink delivers an expectation of ‘lemon-ness’. The colourprimes the taste and odour expectation.

The present invention is limited to the intrinsic mood effects ofodours, and does not address those that may arise from additionalexternal information which may be present in consumer products, andwhich will have an additional priming effect, for example, as inaromatherapy. Aromatherapy teaches that essential oils can providestimulating effects. In its traditional form, an aromatherapist appliesoils to the patients skin with massage to deliver benefits includingmood. Occasionally aromatherapists will mix oils to achieve the desiredeffects. The use of aromatic plants and oils dates back to ancienttimes. Holy perfumes were used as incense or aromatic oil to evoke aspiritual atmosphere or heighten spiritual awareness. In the times ofthe Assyrians and the Babylonians aromatic oils were popular in spas andbaths. These people believed that they could use fragrant essences topreserve their health and thus live longer. Traditionally the art ofaromatherapy is concerned with healing. It has been shown more recentlythat essential oils are absorbed through the mucosas of the mouth, nose,pharynx, gastro-intestines and also through intact skin. The oilsinteract with certain cell membrane lipids thus causing, among othereffects, an alteration of the calcium-ion-channel-function. Besides thisdirect molecular action there is also stimulation in the limbic systemin the brain which is responsible for all our emotions and sensationssuch as anxiety, fear, feelings of wellness, harmony and sexual desires.Through this mode of action aromatherapy has several therapeuticbenefits, for beauty, general well-being, emotional help and certainillnesses. Treatments may be used as an effective method of stressrelief or they may help people to become more energised.

Although these practices benefit from the aroma of the materials used,it is not clear that the primary benefits arise from the aromasthemselves or for example, the skin contact, the massage, theexpectations of the subject, and/or the teachings of the aromatherapist.There is little consistency between the odours of essential oils,reputed to have stimulating effects.

Our research has shown that the ability of odours to enhance mood isrelated to their complexity. Complex odours in a similar olfactorycategory were generally more effective than simple blends, and simpleblends were more effective than single materials and oils. Inexperiments, which involved pure smelling, as opposed to skinapplication and massage, the more complex creations outperformed theirsimple analogues in terms of mood generation. In all cases, perfumesdeveloped according to the skills of the art, outperformed the simpleraromatherapy oils (see Example section).

Apart from the widespread usage of aromatherapy there are fewdisclosures in the literature that reveal how to design complexfragrances to deliver target emotional benefits. European patent numberEP 1,343,466 describes perfumes that will aid relaxation and calming,and co-pending application PCT/GB2006/002285 describes how to formulateenlivening perfumes using a relatively limited perfume ingredientpalette. U.S. Pat. No. 7,097,863 discloses a process for relaxing theback, shoulder or neck muscles through the inhalation of aroma notesdescribed as rosy, floral, musky, ambery, sweet and/or powdery. EP1,218,023 relates to fragranced personal care compositions that may beused to calm mammals, including humans and in particular, humans agedbetween about 1 day to 12 years. These compositions include sensorycomponents comprising a specified essential oil together with particularperfume ingredients.

The sensory interactions of perfume ingredients are well known by thosein the art to be very complex, and many years of training are requiredbefore perfumers become competent to work well with a wide repertoire ofingredients. Similar comments apply to the mood effects delivered byperfumes, but surprisingly it is possible to formulate perfumes withdesirable emotional benefits using the creative rules described below.

REFERENCES

-   Diener, E. & Larsen, R. J. (1984). Temporal stability and    cross-situational consistency of affective, behavioural, and    cognitive responses, Journal of Personality and Social Psychology,    47, pages 871-883.-   Russell, J. A. (1980). A circumplex model of affect. Journal of    Personality and Social Psychology, 39, pages 1161-1178.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the present invention there is provided a method ofpromoting activated, pleasant moods through the inhalation of aneffective amount of energising, non-stressing fragrances (invigoratingfragrances). Also provided are the fragrance compositions themselves,together with consumer products that incorporate such fragrances todeliver the desired emotional benefits.

Fragrance compositions of this invention are comprised of at least 75%by weight, 10 preferably 85% by weight of perfume materials drawn fromthe following groups:

-   A) At least 10% by weight in total of at least three materials drawn    from Group ‘IMP’ comprising: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl    salicylate; bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde;    1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone;    prop-2-enyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE;    2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; fir balsam; fir needle oil;    3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; ginger oil; guaiacwood;    linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl    2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orange    flower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary    oil; sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; tarragon oil;-   B) Optionally up to 90% of materials from the following groups:    -   Group ‘HMR’ comprising:    -   allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol; ethyl        linalol; ethylene brassylate;        4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol;        geranium oil; isoeugenol; lemon oil;        3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde;        4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde;        alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one;        cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; gamma-undecalactone.    -   Group ‘HMI’ comprising:    -   1-{[2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy} butan-2-ol;        3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-{b}]furan;        alpha-damascone; dihydromyrcenol; eugenol;        3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal;        2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange        oil; 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate.    -   Group ‘HMP’ comprising:    -   1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo[5.3.1.0{1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone;        allyl cyclohexylpropionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S        pcmf; 7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base;        cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl        acetoacetate; ethyl maltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl        acetate; (3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol;        2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene;        4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate;        2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; ylang oil.    -   Group ‘RMP’ comprising:    -   anisic aldehyde;        (2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol;        benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin;        oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one; hexyl salicylate;        hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol;        2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate; alpha-terpineol;        vanillin;    -   Group ‘GEN’ comprising:    -   cyclopentadecanolide; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta;        isobornyl cyclohexanol; 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),        8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone;        3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol;        methyl dihydrojasmonate; 2-phenylethanol;    -   provided the following conditions are met:    -   (a) IMPs >=HMPs +HMRs    -   (b) IMPs+HMIs+GENs >=70%    -   (c) (IMPs+HMIs)/(IMPs+HMIs+RMPs+HMRs)>=0.7    -   (d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)>=0.5    -   (e) IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)+(100−TOTAL)]>=0.3        wherein ‘IMPs’ indicates the sum of the percentages of materials        within Group IMP, and similarly for the remaining groups, the        symbol ‘>=’ indicates ‘at least equal to’, and ‘TOTAL’ is the        sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs, provided also that        low odour or no odour solvents are excluded from the calculation        of these sums.

References herein the percentage by weight of perfume ingredients meansrelative to the total weight of perfume ingredients in the perfumecomposition and excludes, for example, any optional solvents, diluents,etc.

Disclosed herein are perfume formulation rules that those skilled in theart of perfumery can use to create perfumes with a high probability ofpromoting activated mood states associated with feelings of invigorationand energisation.

We have carried out extensive studies into the relationship betweenperfume formulations and the mood states engendered upon inhalation ofthe perfumes. A variety of techniques have been used such as brainactivity mapping, visual mood profiling and biophysical monitoring.Typical methodologies and output are described below.

The way in which a complex mixture of perfume ingredients affect mood isnot well understood. Perfume materials that are associated with a moodstate such as relaxing may nevertheless be useful in fragranceformulations that deliver the opposite affect. This ambiguity variesfrom material to material, and must be taken into account when creatingfragrances designed for specific moods.

Without being bound by theory, on the basis of our observations we haveclassified perfume ingredients as belonging to various mood classes.This has enabled a number of predictive perfume creation rules to beconstructed that are very useful in practice. The rules are based onrecognising that membership of a class may be ‘fuzzy’, for examplecertain materials may be useful as building materials for a ‘happy’fragrance but equally well may be useful in other perfume formulationsto support say, relaxing moods or invigorating moods. Certain materialshave been found to be useable in a fragrance (at the levels specifiedherein) to support a variety of mood states.

The classes are identified as follows: ‘HMP’ comprising perfumeingredients strongly associated with happy moods; ‘HMR’ comprisingingredients that may support both happy and relaxing moods; ‘HMI’comprising ingredients that may support both happy and invigoratingmoods; ‘RMP’ comprising ingredients that strongly support relaxingmoods; ‘IMP’ comprising ingredients that strongly support invigoratingmoods; and ‘GEN; comprising ingredients that may support a variety ofmoods. It must be emphasized that these designations are relevant toingredients as used by one skilled in the art (eg a perfumer) under thedosage and pattern constraints disclosed here.

Materials

The below list details the materials of the invention, giving the commonname of each material as used within the perfume industry, alongsidewith (where possible or where relevant) the corresponding IUPAC nameand/or tradename(s) and suppliers. Certain materials (e.g. mandarin oil)are complex mixtures whose exact compositions may vary with geographyand season. In such cases here the invention is taken to refer to thegeneral class of oils irrespective of origin.

Group IMP:

allyl amyl glycolate also known as prop-2-enyl[(2-methylbutyl)oxy]acetate;benzyl salicylate also known as phenylmethyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; bergamotoil;coriander oil;cyclamen aldehyde also known as2-methyl-3-[4-(1-methylethyl)phenyl]propanal;1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone available underthe name Cyclisone™ (Q);

Prop-2-enyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate also known asallyl(cyclohexyloxy)acetate and cyclogalbanate; Damascenia 185 SAE™ (F);

2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol also known as dimethyl heptanol;fir balsam;fir needle oil;3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal available under the nameFloralozone™ (IFF);ginger oil;guaiacwood;linalyl acetate also known as 1-ethenyl-1,5-dimethylhex-4-enyl acetate;litsea cubeba oil;methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; also known as Moss OakmossSynthetic;nutmeg oil;olibanum oil also known as olibanum resinoid;orange flower oil;

Ozonal AB 7203C™ (Q);

patchouli oil;rose oxide also known as4-methyl-2-(2-methylprop-1-enyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran (including racemicand chiral forms);rosemary oil;sage clary oil;spearmint oil;tamarine AB 8212E™;tarragon oil.

Group HMP:

1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo [5.3.1.0{1,5}] undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone,available under the names: Acetyl Cedrene, Vertofix Coeur™ (IFF), andMethyl Cedryl Ketone;allyl cyclohexyl propionate also known as prop-2-enyl3-cyclohexylpropanoate;allyl heptanoate also known as prop-2-enyl heptanoate;

Apple Oliffac S pcmf™ (IFF);

7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one available under the name Calone1951™ (CAL);

Cassis base;

cis-3-hexenyl salicylate also known as (3Z)-hex-3-enyl2-hydroxybenzoate;damascenone also known as(2E)-1-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexa-1,3-dien-1-yl)but-2-en-1-one;gamma-decalactone also known as decalactone gamma and5-hexyldihydrofuran-2(3H)-one;ethyl acetoacetate also known as ethyl 3-oxobutanoate;ethyl maltol also known as 2-ethyl-3-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one;ethyl methyl phenylglycidate also known as ethyl3-methyl-3-phenyloxirane-2-carboxylate;hexyl acetate;

(3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol available under the names Jadenol (Q) andUndecavertol (G);

2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene available under the nameMethyl Pamplemousse (G);4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one also known as Raspberry Ketone orRastone;styrallyl acetate also known as 1-phenylethyl acetate;2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone available under the nameVeloutone (F);ylang oil also known as ylang ylang oil.

Group HMR: Allyl ionone also known as(1E)-1-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohex-2-en-1-yl)hepta-1,6-dien-3-one;

benzyl acetate also known as phenylmethyl acetate;cis-jasmone also known as3-methyl-2-[(2Z)-pent-2-enyl]cyclopent-2-en-1-one;citronellol also known as 3,7-dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol;ethyl linalol also known as (6Z)-3,7-dimethylnona-1,6-dien-3-ol;ethylene brassylate also known as 1,4-dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione;4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol available under thenames Florosa™ (Q) or Florol™ (F);geraniol also known as (2E)-3,7-dimethylocta-2,6-dien-1-ol;geranium oil;iso eugenol also known as 2-(methyloxy)-4-[(1E)-prop-1-enyl]phenol;lemon oil;3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde and4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde and mixturesthereof (eg as available under the name Lyral™ (IFF));alpha-iso-methyl ionone also known as methyl ionone alpha iso and(3E)-3-methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohex-2-en-1-yl)but-3-en-2-one;3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one available under the name Muscenone™(F);cyclohexadecanolide and cyclopentadecanone and mixtures thereof, e.g. asavailable under the name Silvanone™ (Q);gamma-undecalactone also known as 5-heptyldihydrofuran-2(3H)-one, andPeche Pure™ (G).

Group HMI:

1-{[2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol available under thename Amber Core™ (Q);3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-{b}]furan available underthe names Amberlyn Super™ (Q) and Cetalox™ (F);alpha-damascone also known as damascone alpha and(2E)-1-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohex-2-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-one;dihydromyrcenol also known as 2,6-dimethyloct-7-en-2-ol;eugenol also known as 2-(methyloxy)-4-prop-2-enylphenol;3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal available under the namesAquanal™ (Q) and Helional™ (IFF);2,4,-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde also known as Ligustral™ (Q);mandarin oil;orange oil;2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate available under the namesOrtholate™ (Q) and Verdox™ (IFF);

Group RMP:

anisic aldehyde also known as 4-(methyloxy)benzaldehyde;

(2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-olavailable under the names Bangalol™ (Q) and Bacdanol™ (IFF); BenzoinSiam resinoid;

ethyl vanillin also known as 3-(ethyloxy)-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde;oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one available under the name Habanolide™(F);hexyl salicylate also known as hexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate;hydroxycitronellal also known as 7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal;jasmin oil;3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol also known as Mefrosol™ (Q);2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate also known as phenoxyethylisobutyrate and available as a major component in Prunella™ (F);alpha-terpineol also known as terpineol or2-(4-methylcyclohex-3-en-1-yl)propan-2-ol;vanillin also known as 4-hydroxy-3-(methyloxy)benzaldehyde.

Group GEN:

cyclopentadecanolide also known as oxacyclohexadecan-2-one;hexyl cinnamic aldehyde also known as (2E)-2-hexyl-3-phenylprop-2-enal;ionone beta also known as beta-ionone and(3E)-4-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohex-1-en-1-yl)but-3-en-2-one;isobornyl cyclohexanol also known as3-(5,5,6-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl)cyclohexanol and availableunder the name Sandela™ (G);1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanoneavailable under the name Iso E Super™ and Isoambois™;3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal available under thename 111y aldehyde;linalol also known as 3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol;methyl dihydrojasmonate also known as methyl(3-oxo-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetate;2-phenylethanol also known as phenyl ethyl alcohol or phenyl ethanol.Key to suppliers:

-   -   F=Firmenich    -   G=Givaudan    -   IFF=International Flavors and Fragrances    -   Q=Quest International    -   SYM=Symrise

Solvents

A number of liquids are commonly used within perfumery as solvents fordifficult to dissolve, intractable compounds such as solids or gums, oras carriers for powerful materials with intense odours. Examples of suchsolvents include dipropylene glycol (DPG), diethyl phthalate (DEP),benzyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate (IPM), triacetin and triethylcitrate (TEC). Typically these materials have no or very low odour andmake little contribution to the overall odour of a perfume when presentat normal concentrations (less than 60%, usually less than 40%, oftenless than 20%). For the purposes of this invention, such vehicles arenot included in the calculations of the percentage compositions, sothat, for example a perfume mixture containing 50% w/w of DPG togetherwith 10% each of five perfume materials would be considered to be aperfume with the five materials at 20% w/w each. This solvent correctionis necessary to provide a true picture of the odour-bearing fraction ofa perfume.

‘No or very low odour’ means that is scores less than 80 on an odourindex scale as set out in EP0404470 (based on a comparison with theodour intensity of a control sample of a 10% solution of benzyl acetatein dipropylene glycol, which corresponds to an index of 100), andincludes diethylphthelate, dipropylene glycol, triacetin, benzylbenzoate, triethyl citrate, Herculyn D (trade mark), isopropyl myristateand acetyl tributylcitrate.

Preferences

Preferred fragrance compositions comprise (following adjustment of theperfume composition allowing for solvents) at least 15% by weight ofingredients drawn from the Group IMP. Furthermore, the sum of thepercentages of ingredients falling within Groups IMP, HMI, and GEN ispreferably at least 80%. Preferably the ratio IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) isat least 0.6. Also preferred are perfumes that comprise at least fiveingredients that are members of Group IMP, even more preferably at leasteight ingredients. Generally perfumes of the invention will contain atleast 15 perfumery ingredients (including those not classified herein,but excluding solvents), and it is preferred that they contain at least25 ingredients, even more preferred 40 ingredients. For the purposes ofcalculating numbers of ingredients, materials present at less than 0.1%may be ignored, and essential oils are counted as single materials.

Most preferred are fragrance compositions comprising at least 25% byweight of ingredients drawn from the Group IMP. Furthermore, the sum ofthe percentages of ingredients falling within Groups IMP, HMI, and GENis most preferably at least 90%. Most preferably the ratioIMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) is at least 0.8.

The fragrance compositions of the invention exert a mood benefit viaolfactory sampling of an effective amount of the perfume throughinhalation. The inhalation may be of the headspace above the perfumeitself, or above consumer products including the perfume, for examplealcoholic systems such as colognes, bath and body preparations, airfresheners, and many others. The term ‘headspace’ as used here means thespace surrounding a product, and this relates not only to the ‘smellfrom the bottle’ but also to that produced in use e.g. during showering.The term “effective amount” refers to the percentage by weight of theinvigorating fragrance that is needed to be incorporated into a consumerproduct to promote the desired state of energisation.

In a further aspect, the invention provides a method of promoting a moodof well-being and happiness through the inhalation of an effectiveamount of at least one invigorating fragrance as described herein in anaesthetically pleasing form, such as, for example, cologne, an airfreshener or a shampoo.

The fragrance compositions may be used “as is” (e.g., 100%) or in a“cologne”. Directions for quantity to use and frequency of use, as wellas variations in the formulation, e.g., summer and winter formulations,may be employed to assure that effective levels of invigoratingfragrance(s) may be administered. For the purpose of this invention, theterm “cologne”, as exemplified hereinafter, means an invigoratingfragrance incorporated in an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution. Theinvigorating fragrance can vary between 1 to 99% and the balance of theformulation is comprised of alcohol or a mixture of water and alcohol.The water: alcohol weight ratio can vary from 50:50 to 0:100. Examplesof alcohols typically used in these products are SDA 39-C and SDA-40,either 190 “proof” or anhydrous (See “Ethyl Alcohol Handbook”, 5thEdition, Published by National Distillers and Chemical Co.). The colognecan also contain solubilizing agents, emollients, humectants, thickeningagents, bacteriostats or other cosmetically used ingredients.

Consumer Compositions

As used herein, “consumer composition” includes, but is not limited to,room fresheners or room deodorants; clothes deodorants; fabricsofteners; dryer-added fabric softener articles; household cleansers;toilet bowl cleaners; cosmetic products such as powders, creams,deodorants, hand lotions and sun screens; personal care products such asantiperspirant and underarm deodorants, general body deodorants, haircare products such as hair sprays, conditioners, rinses, shampoos; footcare products; colognes, after shaves and body lotions; solid or liquidsoaps and anionic, cationic, nonionic or zwitterionic detergents; odourcontrol products; perfumed polymers; space odorants; colognes, toiletwaters, hair preparations, such as lacquers, brilliantines, and pomades.

Consumer compositions may take a variety of forms including, but notlimited to, powders such as talc, dusting powders, face powders and thelike, bars, sticks, tablets, mousses, gels, liquids, sprays, fabricconditioning sheets, cleansing compositions, powders, oils, bath oilsand other bath compositions, aerosols, candles, substances that may beused with vaporizers, wipes, washes, shampoos, gels, soaps, sticks,balms, sachets, pillows, mousses, sprays, lotions, creams and cleansingcompositions.

When fragrance compositions are used as an olfactory component of aconsumer composition, such as a solid or liquid anionic, cationic,nonionic or zwitterionic detergent or a cosmetic powder or a deodorantstick, as little as 0.1% by weight of the fragrance composition in theperfumed article will suffice. In space odorant applications, on theother hand, as much as 99% of the combined carrier perfume substance andfragrance composition(s) can be present. Thus, consumer compositions maycontain in the range of from about 0.1% up to about 99% of a compositionof matter consisting essentially of fragrance composition(s) of thisinvention.

The term “consumer composition” also includes solid-form polymers, suchas polyethylene, polypropylene and other polymers that contain pores.Such perfumed polymers can be produced according to any technique wellknown to one having ordinary skill in the art.

The fragrance compositions may also further include other odoriferouscomponents that may be used for purposes of improving the appeal to theconsumer.

Dispensing

In yet another aspect of this invention, at least one fragrancecomposition is dispensed in an amount and time effective to provide avaporous emission for inhalation.

Dispensing of the fragrance compositions may be by any conventionalmeans, such as from a vessel containing the odorant substance,optionally with a valve and nozzle mechanism, an aerosol or non-aerosolspray, a gas, a solid or liquid air freshener, a scented cloth, lotion,cream, perfume, cologne, potpourri, incense, light bulb ring, a candle,fabric softener, carpet shampoo or freshener, a plug-in air freshener,and the like. The invigorating fragrances can be dispensed incombination with an odorless liquid carrier such as mineral oil orwater, and can be formulated with a viscosity effective to allow foraerosolization.

The fragrance compositions may also be packaged as a part of an articleof manufacture, or kit. The kit can include in association, for example,(a) a carrier and other optional additives for forming a composition,placed in containing means such as a vial, jar, pouch, can, bottle,cloth, aerosol can, blister pack, and the like, containing an effectiveamount of an invigorating fragrance; and (b) means for instructing as tothe invigorating fragrance and its use to promote well-being andhappiness. The parts of the kit can be contained or separately packagedwithin a packaging material, such as a box or bag.

The fragrance compositions can be delivered in the form of a liquidsolution, aerosol spray, solid, microcapsules, or other suitable form todeliver a suprathreshold amount of the odorant for sniffing andinhalation into the nasal passageway. The fragrance compositions can beadministered in combination with an odourless liquid carrier such asmineral oil or water, and can be formulated with a viscosity effectiveto allow for aerosolisation. The fragrance compositions can bedispensed, for example, by means of a cloth material that is coated withfragrance compositions, as a solid or liquid form contained in a cappedvessel, from an aerosol or pump-type spray device, as a nasal spray, byopening a blister pack or scratch-and-sniff odour patch containing theodorant in the form of microspheres, from a pen-like dispensercontaining a liquid form of the fragrance compositions adsorbed to awicking material, and the like.

Delivery of the fragrance compositions may employ a device that isportable and minimally disruptive of bystanders. The invigoratingfragrances can also be administered to a group of people within aconfined area, for example, by pumping air containing invigoratingfragrance through an air vent, spraying the invigorating fragrances intothe air as a mist or dry powder using an aerosol or non-aerosol spray,and the like.

It is preferred that the fragrances of the invention be capable ofprolonged mood enhancement (e.g. over hours) as opposed to aninstantaneous effect. These effects can be monitored by measurement ofsalivary cortisol, and comparing the results with those from a “noodour” control. The body produces more cortisol as a reaction to stress,and the level of bodily cortisol is reflected in the level of cortisolin the saliva. Salivary cortisol provides a convenient route to assessthe degree of stress over a period of hours.

EXAMPLES

The invention will be further described by reference to the followingdetailed examples, wherein the methodologies are as described below.

FIG. 1 is a graph of smelling score against a variety of mood attributesfor fragrance compositions described as being either a base, an accordor a finished fragrance.

Example 1 A Study on Perfume Complexity

A total of 20 different odours were evaluated in a consumer sniff test.The odours were grouped according to their complexity into 3 groups:complex finished fragrances, mixes of fragrance materials known asaccords, and simple fragrance mixes or bases. The consumers were askedto smell a subset of the odours and score against the attributes:trendy, calming, nostalgic, relaxing, warm, comforting, stimulating,modem, soothing, sexy, refreshing, cool, energising. The results shownin FIG. 1 indicate that the more complex fragrances outperformed theirsimpler analogues across each of these attributes.

Example 2

The fragrance compositions detailed in Table 1 were prepared andsubjected to a variety of test protocols. Those fragranced labelled 11through to 14 are fragrance compositions according to the invention,whereas those labelled C1 through C4 are comparatives. Analysis of thesecompositions according to the group classifications given here is shownbelow.

TABLE 1 Fragrance compositions FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS I1 I2 I3 I4 C1 C2C3 C4 INGREDIENT GROUP w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w %ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE(Q) IMP 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL AMYLGLYCOLATE 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYLCYCLOHEXYLPROPIONATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYLHEPTANOATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL IONONE(G) HMR 0.00.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMBER CORE(TM)(Q) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.7 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 AMBERLYN SUPER(TM)(Q) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0AMBERLYN SUPER(TM)(Q) 10% DPG HMI 2.0 0.0 2.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0AMBRETTOLIDE(TM)(G) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMYL SALICYLATEN/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 2.0 ANISIC ALDEHYDE RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 APPLE OLIFFAC S PCMF(TM)(IFF) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.4 0.0 APPLINAL(TM)(Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ARMOISETUNISIAN 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ARMOISE TUNISIANOIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BANGALOL(TM)(Q) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.50.6 0.0 3.0 0.5 4.2 BANGALOL LAEVO(TM)(Q) RMP 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.00.0 0.0 BASIL COMORES OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BASILCOMORES OIL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BENZALDEHYDE 10%DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 BENZOIN SIAM RESINOID 50% DPGRMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 0.0 0.2 BENZYL ACETATE HMR 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.00.5 0.0 4.0 4.5 BENZYL SALICYLATE IMP 0.0 0.0 7.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0BERGAMOT OIL IMP 18.0 5.0 15.0 18.0 0.0 3.0 4.0 0.0 BIRCH LEAF N/A 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 CALONE 1951(TM) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.00.0 0.0 CALONE 1951(TM) 1% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0CAMOMILE MOROCCAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CAMOMILE ROMAN10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CARDAMOM OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.00.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CASSIONE(TM) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 CASSIS BASE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 0.3 0.0 CASSIS BASE 10% DPGHMP 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CEDARWOOD VIRGINIAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CEDRENYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 CETALOX(TM)(F) 10% DEP HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0CETALOX(TM)(F) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CINNAMIC ALCOHOL N/A0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.4 CINNAMON LEAF OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENOL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3HEXENOL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYLACETATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYLCARBONATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYLCARBONATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYLSALICYLATE HMP 3.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 CIS JASMONE HMR 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.1 0.0 CIS JASMONE 10% DPG HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 CIS-6-NONEN-1-OL 0.1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0CITRONELLOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 1 CITRONELLYL ACETATE N/A0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CLOVE BUD OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 3 CORIANDER OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 COUMARIN N/A0.0 0.0 0.7 0.4 0.0 1.0 0.0 4 CUMIN SEED 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE IMP 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0CYCLISONE(TM) IMP 0.0 3.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLO GALBANATE IMP0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLOPENTADECANOLIDE GEN 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.00.0 0.0 1.5 1 CYCLOGALBANATE 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 0.0 0.0DAMASCENIA 185 SAE(F)(TM) IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0DAMASCENONE 10% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 DAMASCONE ALPHA10% DPG HMI 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 DECALACTONE GAMMA HMP 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIHYDROJASMONE(Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 DIHYDROMYRCENOL HMI 0.0 0.0 6.5 6.0 1.0 3.0 1.0 0.0 DIMETHYLPHENYLETHYL CARBINOL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0DIMETHYLHEPTANOL IMP 0.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIPROPYLENEGLYCOL(DPG) SOLV 0.0 9.8 3.5 4.6 11.4 0.0 3.9 6.6 ETHYL ACETOACETATE HMP0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL BUTYRATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL LINALOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0ETHYL MALTOL HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL MALTOL 1% DPG HMP0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL METHYL PHENYLGLYCIDATE HMP 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL VANILLIN RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 ETHYL VANILLIN 10% DPG RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYLENEBRASSYLATE HMR 8.0 0.0 0.0 7.0 0.0 16.0 3.0 7 EUGENOL HMI 0.0 0.0 0.10.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 EUGENYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0EXALTENONE(TM)(F) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FIR BALSAM OIL IMP0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FIR NEEDLE SIBERIA OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 2.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FLORALOZONE(IFF) IMP 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0FLORALOZONE(IFF) 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0FLORHYDRAL(G) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FLOROSA(TM)(Q) HMR 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GALAXOLIDE(TM)(IFF) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.00.0 0.0 0.0 GALBANUM ARTESSENCE(BIO) 1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.5 0.0 GERANIOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 3.0 0.0 0.0 3 GERANIUM AFRICAN OILHMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 GERANYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.30.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GINGER PURE IMP 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0GRAPEFRUIT BASE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GUAIACWOOD IMP 0.00.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 HABANOLIDE(TM)(F) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.00.0 2.0 2 HELIONAL(TM)(IFF) HMI 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 0.0 3.0 0.0HELIOTROPIN N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 3 HEXYL ACETATE HMP 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 HEXYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE GEN 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 5.0 4 HEXYL SALICYLATE RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0HYDROXYCITRONELLAL RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 INDOLE 1% DPG N/A0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 INDOLE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 IONOL(preservative) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.2 0.0IONONE ALPHA N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 IONONE BETA GEN 0.0 0.00.0 2.9 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 IONONE BETA 10% DPG GEN 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.00.0 0.0 IRONE ALPHA(TM)(G) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0ISOAMBOIS(Q) GEN 4.0 7.0 5.0 7.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOAMYL ACETATE 10% DPGN/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 ISOBUTYL ISOBUTYRATE 1% DPG N/A 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOEUGENOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.00.0 ISOEUGENOL 10% DPG HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0JADENOL(TM)(Q) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 JASMIN OIL RMP 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 2 JASMOLACTONE(F) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.00.0 0.0 JASMOPYRANE(Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LAVANDINABRIALIS OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LAVENDER OIL N/A 0.00.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 18.0 0.0 1 LEMON ITALIAN OIL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05.0 0.0 LIGUSTRAL(Q) HMI 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 LIGUSTRAL(Q)10% DPG HMI 4.0 0.0 3.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 LILY ALDEHYDE GEN 6.0 5.00.0 1.3 20.0 0.0 14.0 4 LIME OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0LINALOL GEN 0.0 3.0 2.6 4.0 5.5 0.0 1.0 6 LINALYL ACETATE IMP 0.0 0.08.5 5.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LITSEA CUBEBA OIL IMP 1.0 0.4 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 LYRAL HMR 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 5.0 2.0 3 MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL HMI4.0 3.0 0.0 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL 10% DPG HMI 4.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MANZANATE(Q) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.00.0 0.0 MEFROSOL(Q) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MELONAL(TM)(G)N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.2 0.0 METHYL ANTHRANILATE N/A 0.0 0.4 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL BUTANOL 1,2 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.20.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL CHAVICOL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0METHYL DIHYDROJASMONATE GEN 36.0 42.0 0.0 9.0 15.0 10.0 20.0 0.0 METHYLHEPTENONE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL HEPTINECARBONATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL IONONEALPHA ISO HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 12.0 1.0 2 METHYL OCTINE CARBONATE 2010% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 METHYL PAMPLEMOUSSE(G) HMP0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC IMP 0.0 0.0 1.80.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC 10% DPG IMP 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.50.2 3.0 0.0 0.0 MUGUET MAYCIANE OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 6.0 0.0MUSCENONE(TM)(F) HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 NEROLI OIL N/A 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 NONALACTONE GAMMA N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 NONALACTONE GAMMA 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.70.0 NUTMEG IMP 0.0 0.0 2.5 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 OLIBANUM RESINOID IMP 2.00.2 1.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 ORANGE BRAZIL PURE HMI 0.0 0.0 3.0 10.0 0.00.0 1.0 0.0 ORANGE FLORIDA LIGHT OIL HMI 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0UNDECALACTONE GAMMA HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 UNDECAVERTOL(G)HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 VANILLIN RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.00.0 1.0 VANILLIN 10% DPG RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0VELOUTONE(F) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 VERTOFIX COEUR(TM)(IFF)HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 6.0 VETYVERYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 YLANG OIL HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.9 0.8 TOTAL% 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Key to suppliers: B = Biolandes F =Firmenich G = Givaudan IFF = International Flavors and Fragrances Q =Quest International Notes: 1) “Ingredient Y X % DPG” indicates X % ofingredient Y in a DPG solution 2) “N/A” indicates a material that is notallocated (i.e. the group is unknown) 3) “SOLV” indicates the materialto be a solvent

TABLE 2 Group Analysis of Fragrances of Table FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS SUM% I1 I2 I3 I4 C2 C3 C4 C7 HMRs 8.0 3.0 1.3 7.6 8.9 37.0 15.3 20.5 HMIs11.0 5.1 15.7 20.6 4.7 3.0 6.0 0.0 GEN 46.0 65.0 9.6 28.7 41.5 10.0 45.628.5 IMPs 21.2 9.0 56.6 26.5 1.3 9.3 4.1 8.0 HMPs 3.0 5.0 0.2 0.0 8.80.0 4.6 6.8 RMPs 0.0 1.0 0.5 2.7 3.0 14.0 3.9 10.2 TOTAL 89.2 88.1 83.985.9 68.2 73.3 79.5 74.0 SOLV 10.8 10.8 11.5 9.1 15.9 6.5 11.8 7.6 ratio1 0.80 0.78 0.98 0.82 0.34 0.19 0.35 0.21 ratio 2 0.88 0.60 0.99 0.910.10 0.40 0.33 0.32 ratio 3 0.61 0.33 0.77 0.61 0.03 0.19 0.12 0.16 Sumscorrected for solvent solvent 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.2 1.1 1.1 1.1correction* HMRs 9.0 3.4 1.5 8.3 10.6 39.6 17.3 22.2 HMIs 12.3 5.7 17.822.6 5.6 3.2 6.8 0.0 GEN 51.6 72.9 10.8 31.6 49.4 10.7 51.7 30.8 IMPs23.8 10.1 63.9 29.1 1.5 9.9 4.7 8.7 HMPs 3.4 5.6 0.2 0.0 10.4 0.0 5.27.4 RMPs 0.0 1.1 0.6 2.9 3.6 15.0 4.4 11.0 TOTAL 100.0 98.8 94.8 94.581.1 78.4 90.1 80.1 condition 1 Y Y Y Y no no no no condition 2 YES YESYES YES no no no no Notes: *Solvent correction obtained as 100/(100 −SOLV) ratio 1 = (IMPs + HMIs)/(IMPs + HMIs + RMPs + HMRs) ratio 2 =IMPs/(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs) ratio 3 = IMPs/[(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs) + (100 −TOTAL)] condition 1 is IMPs >= HMPs + HMRs condition 2 is IMPs + HMIs +GENs >= 70%

Example 3

Salivary cortisol provides a convenient route to assess the degree ofstress throughout the day. In the below protocol two perfumes weresubjected to a cortisol test largely based on that disclosed in WO2002/049629. The perfume of the invention 13, with an aromatic fougerescent and perceived as invigorating, was found not to promote highercortisol levels during a working day than did a control procedureexcluding perfume. A comparative perfume C4, a spicy oriental typeperceived as relaxing, was found to produce a significantly higher levelof cortisol depression, as expected.

Protocol:

A group of healthy subjects (3 male and 2 female, known as subjects A toE) participated in trials over several days to assess therelaxation/invigorating effect of smelling two fragrances as indicatedby changes in salivary cortisol levels. Assessments took place at least4 hours after waking each day.

-   1) Initial saliva sample provided (approx 1 ml)-   2) Smelling of fragrance (randomised across days) for 15 minutes    i.e. smelling from fragranced sorborod for 20 seconds every 2    minutes.-   3) Second saliva sample provided 30 minutes after the end of the    smelling.-   4) Sample stored in refrigerator until completion of all days    experimentation.-   5) All samples were analysed using an ELISA kit sourced from    Immunodiagnostic Systems Limited (code SLV-2930).

Results:

The effect of no treatment was a small (ca 4.5%) depression in cortisol.Smelling perfume 13 produced a slightly larger depression (ca 8%) butidentical within experimental error. The relaxing fragrance yielded asignificantly larger cortisol depression (ca. 28%). Fragrance 13 istherefore invigorating without causing noticeable increases in cortisolproduction.

TABLE 3 Effect of smelling fragrance I3 on salivary cortisol levelsControl I3 % Change Start End Start End Control I3 A 6.48 6.53 5.20 4.570.751 −12.057 B 4.20 4.50 6.08 5.11 7.089 −15.916 C 3.37 3.12 3.83 3.36−7.252 −12.311 D 3.97 3.80 4.12 4.43 −4.369 7.472 E 3.44 2.81 3.46 3.21−18.477 −7.079 Mean 4.29 4.15 4.37 4.03 −4.452 −7.978 StDev 1.27 1.481.17 0.90 9.55 9.19

TABLE 4 Effect of smelling fragrance C4 on salivary cortisol levelsControl C4 % Change Start End Start End Control C4 A 6.48 6.53 5.25 3.440.751 −34.504 B 4.20 4.50 5.57 3.88 7.089 −30.265 C 3.37 3.12 4.17 3.40−7.252 −18.532 D 3.97 3.80 3.99 3.11 −4.369 −22.146 E 3.44 2.81 3.582.43 −18.477 −32.251 Mean 4.29 4.15 4.33 3.21 −4.452 −27.540 StDev 1.271.48 0.86 0.61 9.55 6.86

Example 4

The fragrances of Table 1 were subjected to two protocols designed toyield information on the mood response they engender.

A) Mood Attribute Testing (MAT)

This was a central location sniff test carried out in the UK.

150 naive consumers were either pre-recruited or recruited by interceptin the street to attend a hall test. They were pre-screened for anynasal disorders or allergic sensitivities to smelling fragrance. Thepanellists were all female and were selected to represent a crosssection of ages from 18 to 55 and a cross section of social classes.

Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order.As each fragrance was smelt they were asked to mark a series of givenmood scales according to how the fragrance made them feel (e.g.comforted, safe, soothed). There were 24 mood scales in all and each wasscored on a 0-10 scale from “not at all” to “extremely”.

B) Mood Portraits

This was also a central location sniff test carried out in the UK, andas for the Mood Attribute Scaling 150 naive consumers were eitherpre-recruited or recruited by intercept in the street to attend a halltest. They were pre-screened for any nasal disorders or allergicsensitivities to smelling fragrance. The panellists used were all femaleand were selected to represent a cross section of ages from 18 to 55 anda cross section of social classes.

Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order.For this test they were asked to experience the mood or emotion evokedby the fragrance and then select, from a library of displayed pictures,up to 5 that evoke the same or similar mood or emotion. Research carriedout previously at Quest had established the mood or emotions evoked bythe pictures and had also developed a statistical approach totransforming the picture selection frequency data into mood profiles foreach fragrance.

The rank orders from each test are shown below in table 5, with the mostinvigorating fragrance being ranked as ‘1’. Although there is noise inthe data the subset of invigorating fragrances according to the presentinvention is clearly discriminated from the comparative fragrances.

TABLE 5 Rank Order for ‘Stimulating’ Perfume Code MAT Method I1 3 2 I2 43 I3 2 1 I4 1 4 C1 5 6 C2 8 8 C3 6 5 C4 7 7

1. A fragrance composition comprising at least 75% by weight, preferably85% by weight of perfume materials drawn from the following groups: A)At least 10% by weight in total of at least three materials drawn fromGroup ‘IMP’ comprising: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl salicylate;bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde;1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone; prop-2-enyl(cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE; 2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; firbalsam; fir needle oil; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; gingeroil; guaiacwood; linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orangeflower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary oil;sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; tarragon oil; B)Optionally up to 90% of materials from the following groups: Group ‘HMR’comprising: allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol;ethyl linalol; ethylene brassylate;4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol; geraniumoil; isoeugenol; lemon oil;3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde;4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde;alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one;cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; gamma-undecalactone. Group‘HMI’ comprising: 1-{[2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol;3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-{b}]furan; alpha-damascone;dihydromyrcenol; eugenol; 3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal;2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange oil;2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate. Group ‘HMP’ comprising:1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo [5.3.1.0{1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone;allyl cyclohexylpropionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S pcmf;7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base; cis-3-hexenylsalicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl acetoacetate; ethylmaltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl acetate;(3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol; 2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene;4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate;2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; ylang oil. Group ‘RMP’comprising: anisic aldehyde;(2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol;benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin; oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one;hexyl salicylate; hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil;3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol; 2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate;alpha-terpineol; vanillin; Group ‘GEN’ comprising: cyclopentadecanolide;hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta; isobornyl cyclohexanol;1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone;3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol; methyldihydrojasmonate; 2-phenylethanol; provided the following conditions aremet: (a) IMPs>=HMPs+HMRs (b) IMPs+HMIs+GENs >=70% (c)(IMP+HMI)/(IMP+HMI+RMP+HMR)>=0.7 (d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)>=0.5 (e)IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)+(100−TOTAL)]>=0.3 wherein ‘IMPs’ indicates thesum of the percentages of materials within Group IMP, and similarly forthe remaining groups, the symbol ‘>=’ indicates ‘0at least equal to’,and ‘TOTAL’ is the sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs,provided also that low odour or no odour solvents are excluded from thecalculation of these sums.
 2. A fragrance composition according to claim1, which comprises at least 15% by weight.
 3. A fragrance compositionaccording to claim 1 or claim 2, which comprises at least 80% by weightof material from the total of Groups IMP, HMI and GEN.
 4. A fragrancecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the ratio ofIMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) is at least 0.6.
 5. A fragrance compositionaccording to claim 1, which comprises at least five materials drawn fromGroup IMP.
 6. A fragrance composition according to claim 5, whichcomprises at least eight materials drawn from Group IMP.
 7. A fragrancecomposition according to claim 1, which comprises at least 15 perfumeryingredients.
 8. A fragrance composition according to claim 7, whichcomprises at least 25 perfumery ingredients.
 9. A fragrance compositionaccording to claim 8, which comprises at least 40 perfumery ingredients.10. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, which comprises atleast 90% by weight of materials selected from the Groups IMP, HMI andGEN.
 11. A consumer composition comprising a fragrance compositionaccording to claim
 1. 12. A method of providing activated, pleasantmoods through the inhalation of an effective amount of a fragrancecomposition according to claim
 1. 13. A process of dispensing afragrance composition according to claim 1 in an amount and for a timeto provide effective vaporous emission for inhalation by a subject. 14.A fragrance composition according to claim 2 which comprises at least25% by weight of material from Group IMP.
 15. A fragrance compositionaccording to claim 4, wherein said ratio is at least 0.8.